Ferries, Fjords, and the Arctic Farewell: A Day Along Norway’s Coastal Gems
We were up early this morning to catch the first ferry, with three planned for today. The route takes us along the beautiful coastal region of Nordland, where the landscape shifts dramatically from rugged mountain peaks to deep fjords and tranquil inlets. This stretch between Meløy, Jektvik, and Kilboghamn offers some of Norway’s most stunning coastal scenery, with the waters of the Norwegian Sea reflecting towering cliffs and scattered islands. It’s the perfect backdrop for today’s ride.
On the way to the first ferry, we stopped in the village of Meløy for a coffee break. This small community, surrounded by striking mountains and fjords, serves as a peaceful pit stop. Then, we continued onward to Jektvik, where we arrived at the dock with a bit of a delay—three hours to wait for the ferry to Kilboghamn. It’s the weekend, and of course, between 12 and 2 PM, it’s their rest period! The ferry crossing itself will take about 1.5 hours, so we’ll need to be patient.
Luckily, we had stocked up on lunch supplies at a small grocery store along the way, so while waiting, we enjoyed our meal on the quayside under the warm sun—17°C with a refreshing sea breeze. Not a bad place to relax, even if unplanned.
By 3 PM, the ferry finally arrived, and after a quick turnover of cars and passengers, we were on board and set off at 3:20 PM. The journey across this part of the Helgeland coast is quite unique, with countless small islands dotting the waters and the looming silhouettes of the Svartisen glacier in the distance.
Afternoon activities
Once we reached Kilboghamn, we headed off to catch the second ferry of the day. About an hour and a half later, we should reach it just in time for the 6:30 PM crossing. It’s a short ride, and conveniently, there’s a camping spot right after we land. With all the downtime from ferry rides, we can push a bit later today. After all, it’s 24-hour daylight up here. 🤗
One special moment during today’s crossing was passing the Arctic Circle. That’s it—officially leaving the Arctic behind and continuing our journey southward.
After the second ferry, we came across Lor’s Thaimat & Kafe, a small roadside gem serving homemade Thai food. We had a little extra time, so we indulged in a delicious Pad Thai with chicken. Outdoor seating, sunny weather—it couldn’t have been more perfect.
Then, we dashed off to catch our third and final ferry of the day, departing at 6:30 PM and docking around 7 PM. With fewer cars in the evening, loading and unloading went faster, and before we knew it, we were back on the road and heading for the next campsite.
The campground is a cozy farm setup with plenty of space for tents. We had everything up in no time—by now, we’re pros at setting up and packing down our camp. To finish the day, we made ourselves a cup of decaf coffee (by accident—a little misstep in understanding Norwegian labels). No worries though; it still tasted fine, and they say it helps you sleep better anyway, right? 😁
A splash of whiskey under the late-evening sun and the day was complete. Oh, and I don’t think I’ve mentioned—nearly every stop, we’re surrounded by campers!
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