A Quiet Father’s Day Ride Through Coastal Norway
Today turned out to be a relaxed riding day, though we still had three ferries to catch along the route. That meant waiting times, so we covered fewer kilometers than usual. It’s also Sunday—Father’s Day! I sent my dad a quick message to wish him a happy Father’s Day and received warm messages from my kids as well. 😊👍
The ride today took us through the serene coastal landscapes of Northern Norway. Our first ferry of the day was from Vennesund to Holm, a crossing that offered breathtaking views of the surrounding islands and the jagged coastline. The fjords cut deep into the land here, and the air smells like salt and pine, creating a refreshing atmosphere as we waited for the ferry.
On the ferry, looking back towards Vennesund, we watched the rolling hills and scattered islands gradually fade from view. By the time we reached the other side at Holm, we were back on the RV17—the famous coastal highway that feels like it’s been designed specifically for motorcyclists. It’s a winding route, often hugging the coastline, passing picturesque villages, and cutting through lush forests. Each turn reveals new, dramatic scenery, and the further we go, the more the landscape opens up.
In Norway, almost all stores are closed on Sundays, with the exception of a few supermarkets. Luckily, we found one open from 11:00 to 15:00 via Google. We bought our lunch there and enjoyed it at a small table outside—fresh bread with mackerel from a can. Tasted amazing!
The afternoon
We later stopped briefly in Brønnøysund, a charming coastal town known for its sheltered harbor, colorful wooden houses, and proximity to the famous mountain with a hole, Torghatten. While we didn’t have time to explore the mountain today, it’s easy to see why this area is a draw for travelers seeking both nature and tranquility. Afterward, we continued to the ferry bound for Tjøtta, where the view from the deck was stunning. You can see far across the sea towards scattered islands and the low-lying shores, a vast contrast to the towering peaks that dominate the mainland.
After lunch, we continued towards the third ferry of the day. Once aboard, we noticed there were no tie-downs for the motorcycles. All the riders stood around wondering, “What now?” We ended up leaving the bikes on their side stands and headed to the upper deck, fingers crossed. Luckily, everything stayed exactly where we left it during the crossing!
One interesting thing about this route—the RV17 coastal road—is how often you see familiar faces. Many travelers follow the same itinerary, so the faster riders are usually caught up with by the slower ones at each ferry. A fun detail is that motorcyclists and cyclists always get priority boarding since we can be easily tucked away on the side.
Read more about that in my post: How to Save Time and Money on Norwegian Ferries: A Guide for Motorcyclists
After the final ferry, we rode another 20 km and found our campsite, Flåt Camping near the village of Høylandet, nestled beside the river Besa. The surrounding area is peaceful, with a backdrop of low mountains and thick forests that stretch as far as the eye can see. The tents are setup quickly, and for dinner, we dug into one of our emergency meals—no point in taking those back home. There’s still one left in reserve, just in case we can’t find an open store along the route tomorrow.
As for the front shock absorber, it’s still leaking oil. I had thought it would be completely empty by now, but it seems to be holding up—though it’s no longer working properly. Today, it started bottoming out on speed bumps and rough roads. If I don’t take it easy, I get a hard thud as the suspension hits its limit. Tomorrow, I’ll check again to see if it’s stable or getting worse. Depending on how it goes, I might need to stop for repairs after all.
Harbor in Brønnøysund
View from ferry to Tjøtta
Brønnøysund
On the ferry
On the ferry
On the ferry
Waiting for the ferry from Vennesund to Holm
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