A Visit to the Hill of Crosses and Into Latvia’s Heatwave
This morning, we made our way to the Hill of Crosses, an internationally renowned pilgrimage site located about 12 km north of Šiauliai in northern Lithuania. The origins of this site date back to the aftermath of the November Uprising in 1830-1831, when the first crosses were placed on the former Jurgaičiai or Domantai defensive hill. Over the centuries, the hill has become a powerful symbol of Lithuanian resistance and faith. Not only are crosses erected here, but large crucifixes, statues of the Virgin Mary, patriotic engravings, and thousands of small saint statues and rosaries left by Catholic pilgrims. Today, it’s estimated that over 50,000 crosses cover the hill, though the exact number remains unknown.
After exploring this moving site, we crossed the border into Latvia. The temperature had spiked again to 28°C, and with the sun blazing, staying cool was only possible by staying on the move. Standing still in a motorcycle suit in this heat isn’t an option. Thankfully, the locals assured us the heatwave will break soon. They’re just as surprised, it’s never been this warm at this time of year. Unfortunately, the warmth has brought out the mosquitoes much earlier than usual, making the evenings particularly challenging.
Upon arriving at our campsite, a thunderstorm began to roll in. Fortunately, the site had a cozy kitchen where we were able to cook our meal, and a covered terrace outside where we could sit and enjoy dinner as the storm rumbled overhead.
Tomorrow, we’ll be following the scenic coastal road along the Gulf of Rīga, which connects to the Baltic Sea, as we make our way into Estonia. If all goes to plan, we’ll be catching the ferry from Tallinn to Helsinki on Sunday. With 11 sailings a day, we’re optimistic about snagging a spot and continuing our journey.
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